City of Gold and 32 Yolks

Last night at Bend’s Tin Pan Theater, I saw the film City of Gold. Jonathan Gold made his reputation at as the food critic for the LA Weekly, Gourmet Magazine and then at the Los Angeles Times. In 2007, he became the first food writer to win the Pulitzer Prize. I’ve been following him for quite a while as I find his writing to be almost painfully beautiful at times. Go catch this film if you get a chance — you’ll be rewarded. Highly recommended.

This morning I finished reading the New York Times review of Eric Ripert’s biography, 32 Yolks. I met Eric many years ago when Jean-Louis Palladin brought the most notable French chef’s in America to his restaurant, Napa, in Las Vegas for a magnificent meal. (My restaurant had recently won some sort of notable award so we were able to snag reservations.) Red wine with lobster — I remember Ripert’s dish vividly.

In this review I found a salient quote (which has served me well throughout my 30 years in this trade): “The power of the flavors — that comes from soul food,” he said. Without such roots, he added, “your food stays pretty and superficial.”.

Seems obvious and perhaps to an outsider inconsequential, but I think that way too and it still keeps me on my toes!

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